Rooted in Elegance: Winemaker Matt Parish on Lula Cellars and the Soul of Anderson Valley
Tucked into the redwood-lined hills of Mendocino County, Lula Cellars sits in one of California’s most quietly compelling wine regions: Anderson Valley. Known for its cool-climate elegance and rugged individuality, the valley is a haven for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—varieties that thrive in its fog-kissed mornings and extended growing season. At the heart of Lula’s winemaking is Matt Parish, a New Zealand native and internationally seasoned winemaker whose career spans more than 35 vintages across four continents. Since 2017, Matt has brought his global expertise and deep reverence for site-specific winemaking to Lula Cellars, crafting wines that not only reflect the land—but tell its story. We sat down with Matt to explore the nuances of Anderson Valley, the uniqueness of Lula’s estate vineyards, and how he approaches the art of cool-climate winemaking with precision, passion, and purpose.
Let’s start with a bit of background. What led you to winemaking, and what brought you to Lula Cellars?
I grew up in New Zealand, where my family grew Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Those varieties are in my blood. I earned a Bachelor’s in Plant and Microbial Sciences and a Master’s in Viticulture and Oenology, and then spent years as a flying winemaker across Europe, Australia, and back home in New Zealand. Eventually, I landed in the U.S. and worked in various roles, from boutique consulting to leading winemaking for large companies. But in 2017, I joined Lula to get back to what I love most—crafting world-class cool-climate wines with a real sense of place.
Anderson Valley is often described as a “hidden gem.” What makes it so uniquely suited to Pinot Noir and our Chardonnay?
It truly is a gem—and not just in terms of beauty. The cool climate is essential for these two varieties. The fog, ocean breezes, and long growing season allow the fruit to develop slowly, which helps preserve acidity, enhance focus, and build complexity. Each site brings something different—whether it’s elevation, soil, or microclimate. That variation is a winemaker’s dream.
You mentioned how sensitive these grapes are to site and climate. What kind of challenges or rewards does farming Pinot Noir here bring compared to other regions?
The coastal influence is the big differentiator. The fog and cool temps stretch the season, and that slower ripening builds nuanced flavors while keeping everything fresh and bright. But it’s not easy. Pinot Noir is notoriously finicky, and the variability in microclimates—from ridge tops to valley floor—means you have to really know your site. But when you get it right, the payoff is tremendous.
Lula makes several vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs. Can you walk us through what sets them apart?
Each vineyard has its own story. For instance, Maggy Hawk and Lula Estate vineyards are both in the cooler “Deep End” of the valley but express themselves very differently due to soil and microclimate. Ferrington Vineyard, near Boonville, is warmer and gives us richer, rounder Pinot with great depth. Even within the Lula Estate, we break it down into blocks and clones—our CVR bottling, for example, is made from Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée clones. Then there’s the Rescue Block, which is really special. What truly sets these wines apart is how we match each site’s unique soil composition—whether it’s the well-drained loam of Ferrington or the uplifted marine sediment at Lula—with specific clones that thrive under those conditions, maximizing both site expression and varietal nuance.
Let’s talk about the Rescue Block. The name is intriguing—what’s the story there?
When we bought the property in 2012, we were clearing land to plant the vineyard and stumbled upon 1,000 overgrown vines that had been left behind. No records, just mystery vines. We decided to rescue them and see what they’d do. Turns out, they’re a mix of four Pinot Noir clones—essentially a rare, unique field blend. That vineyard became the Rescue Block, and it consistently produces one of our most distinctive, complex wines. It’s got fleshiness, depth, and a brooding elegance that people really connect with.
And how does Chardonnay express itself in Anderson Valley compared to places like Sonoma or even Burgundy?
Anderson Valley Chardonnay tends to be more restrained and focused. You get bright citrus and stone fruit, bright acidity, and a lovely mineral backbone. Sonoma and Napa often lean toward riper, more tropical fruit, while our wines are tighter and more elegant. There’s a Burgundian energy to our Chardonnays—structured, age-worthy, but with their own unique voice.
You bottle Chardonnay from two standout sites: Skycrest and Ferrington. What drew you to them?
While both vineyards are from the warmer Boonville end of the valley, they help us showcase the full range of what Anderson Valley Chardonnay can be., Skycrest is up on a mountainside with high elevation—it gives us Chardonnays that are bright, mineral-driven, and super focused. Ferrington, on the other hand, is a flat, low-elevation site that produces a lusher, richer style. They contrast beautifully, and both are so expressive that we bottle them as single-vineyard wines.
Cool-climate wines are often described as “elegant.” What does elegance mean to you as a winemaker?
To me, elegance is about balance. It’s wines that are expressive but not overpowering. That comes from thoughtful farming and gentle winemaking—precise intervention, careful texture development, and above all, letting the vineyard do the talking. Elegance is what keeps people coming back to the glass.
Lula has a strong focus on estate and sustainably farmed fruit. How does that influence your wines?
Sustainability isn’t just a philosophy—it’s a necessity for quality. Healthy soils and balanced vines lead to better grapes, plain and simple. When you farm with intention and respect for the land, the wines show more clarity, more authenticity. Our estate vineyard is a living expression of Anderson Valley, and our job is to nurture that expression, not override it.
If someone were tasting Anderson Valley wines for the first time, which Lula Pinot and Chardonnay would you pour?
For Pinot Noir, I’d go with the 2021 Rescue Block. That wine really captures the soul of the valley—elegant, layered, vibrant. For Chardonnay, the 2023 Skycrest is a standout. It’s bright, mineral, and beautifully textured. It shows what cool-climate Anderson Valley Chardonnay can be at its best.
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As Anderson Valley continues to evolve from hidden gem to one of California’s most exciting cool-climate regions, winemaker Matt Parish remains focused on what matters most: authenticity, balance, and a deep connection to the land. Through his thoughtful approach at Lula Cellars—whether rescuing forgotten vines or capturing the distinct voice of a single hillside—Matt is not just making wine; he’s helping shape the future of Anderson Valley. With each vintage, Lula’s portfolio offers a glimpse into what makes this place so special: wines that are vibrant, layered, and unmistakably true to their origin. And for those just beginning to explore this remarkable region, a glass of Lula is the perfect place to start.
